Kaikoura

Jim had not crossed Cook Strait on the ferry, so off we went to Kaikoura, a doable week end trip. After a night crossing, a quick overnight in Blenheim, and a short trip across the Kaikoura Ranges we arrived at the beautiful Pacific Ocean. 

The views were enough to make the trip worthwhile, but the thousands of seal pups playing in the ocean and the tired mom and dad seals resting on the rocks along the highway left us speechless. But it got even better! We walked along a small stream (one of those wonderfully clear and refreshing forest streams) where hundreds of seal pups come from the ocean to play while the mothers are getting food in the ocean. And about one hundred pups were playing in the pool formed by the beautiful waterfall. Another 10 experience! While we tried to get the best photos, apparently we got too close and we were chased by a seal!

 

The Maori legend says that Maui, the demigod put his foot on the Kaikoura Peninsula when he used the jawbone of his ancestor to fish up the North Island. On a pleasant but overcast day we hiked along this peninsula and then explored some of the beaches down below. We found unusual rock formations on the beaches and also interesting marine life. We would have liked to investigate a little longer, but it was getting dark and we were hungry. 

 

 A crisp and sunny autumn day greeted us in the morning. The beautiful sand/rock beach across from our boutique hotel and the view of the snow covered mountains made it hard for us to leave, but we had a ferry to catch. Maybe a return trip?

 

Cambodia and Vietnam - Final Day

We took advantage of an afternoon flight and returned to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Ho can only be viewed from 8:00 am to 11:00 am during the months of December to September. We understand that he is sent to Russia for maintenance the other months. 

We queued up early in the morning. We knew the rules-no talking, no hats, no hands in pockets, no cameras, no backpacks, no inappropriate clothing. We moved carefully as directed by the guards, and our quick view convinced us it was indeed Ho even though he had wanted to be cremated. 

After two weeks away, and spending it with many people from the states, it felt strange that we were leaving Vietnam and going home to New Zealand. Fortunately we arrived to a warm, sunny day and it felt good.

Cambodia and Vietnam Part 9 - Hanoi

We had peacefully spent several days in Vietnam, but Hanoi?  And how fitting to arrive to chilly, rainy, dreary weather after being in the heat and humidity of the south.

We stayed at an interesting hotel consisting of several buildings on piers in a large lake. There were even a few local fishermen in small boats fishing among and under the  buildings.

 

We started our “history tour” day at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. The mausoleum is closed on Friday, so we walked around the area listening to our guide. We had some trouble hearing him because of all the people in the area, but as the guards had already told him he was too loud (which he wasn’t), we did our best to listen carefully. As we had noticed in Russia, the guards are sometimes bullies, because they can be.

The Presidential Palace where Ho did not live

Ho Chi Minh lived a simple life in a plain house and then moved to his house on stilts, modeled from a traditional rural house, which was next to an extensive bomb shelter. We were able to see into both of his houses, but not the shelter. Whether or not we agree with his politics, he did live his ideals.

Gardener's cottage where Ho lived while his house on stilts was being built.

Ho's house on stilts

Simple Dining Room

We were able to visit only the courtyard of the B-52 Museum as the building wasn’t open. It was eerie seeing the wreckage of the B-52 that had been shot down by a MIG. 

Piece of the tail of the B-52

Wreckage which includes engines

The type of MIG that shot down the B-52

Another uncomfortable place, to say the least, was the Hoa Lo Prison, built by the French, and much of the prison focuses on Vietnamese imprisonment. Of course, we know it as the Hanoi Hilton, and there is a significant space devoted to the prisoners of the American War as it is called in Vietnam. John McCain and many other Americans were held here. That place wouldn’t have been on my list of tourist sites, but I went in with the rest of the tour and was the first person out of the museum.

Stated as John McCain's flight suit, but there is some doubt about that

I think some US pilots might not agree. (reprinted below)

Vietnam has a long history, and it was the French who helped to organize the artifacts and they built a beautiful museum to house them. We stopped to see some of these very early pieces of Vietnam history.

The Museum of Vietnamese History

Then some final shopping in the Old Quarter to spend the rest of our dong. Or is it dongs? 

From the sign at the Hoa Lo Prison Museum
Some Pictures and Objects of United States Pilots in Hoa Lo Prison

United States Government carried out a sabotage warfare by air force, and naval force against the North of Vietnam from 05 August 1964 to 15 January 1973.

Thousands of planes were shot down, hundreds of United States pilots were arrested by north army and people. Some of them were imprisoned here.

During the war, the national economy was difficult but Vietnamese Government had created the best living conditions to US pilots for they had a stable life during the temporary detention period.

Upon the agreement on war termination was concluded in March 1973 in Paris, all the arrested US pilots were released to US Government by Vietnam Government.

Some of pictures and objects on these two exhibition hall show some details of US pilots’ life when they were temporary imprisoned at Hoa Lo Prison.

Cambodia and Vietnam - Part 8

After a quick stop in Da Nang to rejoin the tour group, we rode on the bus through the Pass of Ocean Clouds with nice views of the South China Sea (Vietnamese call it the East Sea) and a prett­­­­y fishing village, making our way to Hue. It was certainly beautiful, but we have seen so many of these views in New Zealand and Vietnam just can’t compete. 

I found the religion in Vietnam confusing at best with the Bhuddism, Hinduism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christian, and Islam all influencing the current practices or non-practices today. More Vietnamese call themselves Bhuddists than anything else, but it does seem to be a mix of many religions. We saw temples, towers, pagodas, a cathedral, churches, and a monastery. 

While in Hue we visited a pagoda and a Bhuddist monastery where young boys were studying to be monks, the Imperial Citadel, and the Mausoleum of Tu Duc, emporer during the Nguyen Dynasty. The Mausoleum had been planned while Tu Duc was still alive, and he lived there for several years, had over one hundred wives, many concubines, but no children. It was a large and at one time lavish place, but I had seen enough ruins and was ready to head to Hanoi.

The shrine where the Buddhist monks worship

Thiem Mu Pagoda

The monks and "monk in training" in the kitchen

 

Thai Hoa Palace inside the Imperial Citadel

Night view of The Citadel from our hotel

Some of the restoration at Tu Duc Mausoluem

Cambodia and Vietnam – Part 7

With our excellent driver and trustworthy guide, we spent the day driving on Highway 1A from Qui Nhon to Da Nang. This was no Sunday afternoon drive in the country, but an intense and focused endeavor by the driver. This “major highway” is a two-lane paved road through many villages and towns and is shared by buses, trucks, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, and walkers. Sharing the road means that more than two and frequently several of these vehicles are adjacent to each other. When passing another car and/or bike and/or motorbike, the driver politely toots the horn and the others move to the right and left sides of the road, no one slowing down. The biggest vehicle always gets the right of way. Amazingly, it works quite well. 

Leaving the non-tourist city of Qui Nhon and the South China Sea, called the East Sea in Vietnam.
Jim was on this beach forty-five years ago!

 We stopped at the Cham towers (around the 12th and 13th centuries) in Qui Nhon and also outside of the city. The first two pictures are at the Thap Doi Temples in the city of Qui Nhon and are in better condition than the Banh It towers north of the city. They are all in the process of being restored as is so much of Vietnam and Cambodia. With the ancient sites in ruins, and more recent places destroyed from wars, it will be a long time, but the improvements are taking place.

Outside of Qui Nhon with our guide, Nam.

A well deserved coconut milk break for our driver, looking out on the lovely beach of East Sea

We took a short side trip to the site of the My Lai Massacre, although the Vietnamese refer to it as Son My. We heard and have read different stories why it was called the My Lai Massacre instead of Son My Massacre. No buildings were left in this area, as the Americans returned and burned whatever was left. A ditch where civilians were killed remains, as does a coconut tree with bullet holes. A couple of buildings have been partially rebuilt to recreate a bit of the original village. Once again, a reminder of the devastating effect of war on innocent civilians.