Hokitika-The Wild West

With 1% of the population of New Zealand living on the West Coast, we had been told to experience a remote, “fifty year behind” region of rugged individuals, with Hokitika seeming like a Wild West town. Maybe because we live in Texas and grew up in the UP, we felt right at home!  And it’s not that much different from the rest of rural New Zealand where we spend so much time exploring.

The Hokitika Gorge with its turquoise water is another stunning view. These stunning views are pretty much non-stop here. Then on to Lake Kaniere, Dorothy Falls and a great sunset. It’s winter here now and sunset is around 5:00, severely limiting our photo ops! 

We frequently cross swing bridges on our hikes.

 The tiny blue penguins(about 1kg) are in danger from dogs and other predators. We saw a dead penguin on the beach that looked like it had died of natural causes and been swept in with the tide. The day we were there members of the community were planting flax along the beach for the penguins to nest.

One of the down sides of winter in New Zealand (there are a few) is the smoke from homes with wood burning fires that is in the air on cold days. These pictures were taken in Hokitika on a calm, sunny, clear morning.

A survey in the Manawatu Standard in Palmy stated that 40% of households in our region use wood for heat. We can even smell it in our leaky kitchen.

TranzAlpine Train

 We had a quick night in Christchurch and on a “cold and grotty morning” we boarded the TranzAlpine for our train trip across the Southern Alps to Greymouth on the West Coast of the South Island. The TranzAlpine is said to be one of the great train journeys, and although I’m not sure what “great journey” list it’s on, we did indeed have a great journey. There was an open car in the back to get good views, but mostly I relaxed and watched the stunning scenery from the warm and cozy train window. 

This was our first time on a train since we went from Helsinki to St. Petersburg(not a great train journey) and I was ordered by the Russian border guard to delete all the photos I had taken. No such troubles on this trip! We had commentary and even photo stops at two of the stations, thanks to our friendly and accommodating conductor.

Jim spent most of his time in the outdoor observation car.

I cracked the ice and felt like I was a child again walking to school.

The Southern Alps

A frosty road

Through the pass and into the sun and Lake Brunner

Waitangi and Russell and A Bit of New Zealand History

 After being inspired at Cape Reinga we spent about two hours on the beach at Tapotupotu and then an hour or so climbing the TE Paki Sand Dunes and watching the sand boarders. A lovely day!

Male and female paradise shelducks having a lively conversation

We didn’t have time to see the ancient Kauri forest, now a sanctuary after suffering from massive cutting, as have so many forests on the planet. Many of these trees can live for more than one thousand years, and some swamp recovered trees have been carbon-dated from 50,000 years ago. We did see some Kauri trees that had been resurrected from the swamp and crafted into beautiful furniture, bowls and nice enough tourist items.  

We made our way along the Pacific to Waitangi and Russell, set in the beautiful Bay of Islands, and both are important in the history of New Zealand. The Treaty of Waitangi signed in 1840 by the British Crown and the Maori is considered the founding document for New Zealand. The Pakeha (white people) were “settling” New Zealand and taking the land from the Maori who had arrived around the twelfth or thirteenth century. In the treaty, the Maori gave power to the British and received the rights of British subjects and also the ownership of the land. Of course, because of language issues, the Maori didn’t have a full understanding of what they were signing and the issues surrounding the treaty continue to be debated. (This is a quick and simple primer on the Treaty-obviously more complex.)

The site of the signing of the treaty. The flag of the United Tribes of NZ and the current flag of NZ

 

Russell, the first capital of New Zealand(for about one year) was a rough town known as the “hell hole of the Pacific” with its rowdy whalers and drunken sailors, but is now a pleasant fishing and tourist village. While at the oldest oldest surviving church on the Queen's birthday and diamond jubilee, it was fitting to sing (to myself) "God Save the Queen". Well, only the first line, which is all I know.

Watching the sunset from a pier in Russell

Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, just shy of the northernmost point of the North Island is a spiritual place for the Maori. The spirits of the deceased leave the land here and go back to their ancestral land of Hawaiki. Although this is not where our spirits will most likely leave our bodies, we found it a meaningful place and were deeply moved. 

Pictures don't come close to the experience, but here they are anyway.

Maori souls are believed to slide down this 800 year old pohutukawa tree that is sticking out the side of the hill-one of the most sacred of Maori places.

The meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. On stormy days, the waves can be nine meters(29ft) high as the two bodies of water crash together. The crashing was visible even on our calm day.

More South Island Pictures

Here are a few more pictures from the bottom of the South Island (and beyond) before we head to the top of the North Island. And, by the way, it was rainy and cold during most of the trip, but those pictures don't usually make it to the blog.

Two tomtits loudly debating whose territory they are in. Notice the penguin tracks!

 

 Jack's blowhole in the Catlins. It is 55m(180ft) deep, 144m(472ft) long, 68m(223ft) wide, and 200m(656ft) inland from the sea. At high tide the sea water rushes through with tremendous force. 

  

A beautiful spot on the Otago Peninsula outside of Dunedin

We never tire of seeing the beautiful beaches!

This beach is completely off limits except once or twice a year when the DOC checks on the rare yellow-eyed penguins that live  here

 

 

 

We got a glimpse of a penguin chick in this nest. Lots of tracks and feathers near the nest

Royal Albatross

Royal Albatross chick about four months old. They are large!

Cormorants and their nests

Another fur seal